The creation of the Binetti woman

Lola Saab talks to Diego Binetti, who has created a fall 2011 collection for women whom he calls ‘dominant, very powerful, elegant and sophisticated’
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HENRY DZIEKAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ

The Binetti woman Opulent and hand-made pieces feature in Diego Binetti’s fall–winter 2011–12 collection.

ON Feb­ruary 12, 2011, Diego Binetti pre­sented his new season’s collec­tion at the Box at Lin­coln Center during New York Fashion Week. Rather than a fash­ion show, the new season’s collec­tion was revealed as a pre­sentation, an up-close and per­sonal experi­ence with the clothing as well as with the designer. The collection included an array of colours that caught one’s eye as well as one’s interest. A one-shouldered dress drapes around the body; beautifully fitting on to the model. The designer elegantly highlights the woman’s silhouette. An ensemble of jewellery was also present, inserting an extra touch of shine, keeping it simple yet overly complex at the same time. The presentation was featured like a scene directly taken from a photograph; some models sat and pondered as others stood flirtatiously while visitors walked around the display of beauty. We spoke to the designer in between the hustle and bustle of the presentation as he described his goal and endeavour in the world of fashion. As he spoke to us with deep interest and devotion for his creations, he continually referred to a ‘Binetti woman’, a term that has come to define the collection as well as his general idea of the style to which he has come to create. Lucire: Describe to us what inspired you into creating this particular collection. Diego Binetti: There is not really an inspiration. The main focal point of this collection was to bring the essence of the woman that I have in my heart, which is the Binetti woman. I am trying to focus the season on concentrating on bringing the Binetti woman out and that is what I did: mixing and matching different fabrications, patchworks of sequence … we also have a mélange of prints … A term that you have come to mention is a ‘Binetti woman’. Can you describe what a Binetti woman is, or, rather, who she is? She is a dominant, very powerful, elegant and sophisticated, and, most of all, she is a woman that lives life. Can you tell us how you would want women to feel like? I want women to feel like every single woman that walks out of the door; they feel radiant, and they live happy and they look beautiful. How long does it take you to put a collection together? Well, some of the embellished pieces that we do in India take about three or four weeks. Three to four ladies make by hand every single gown. It takes a lot of work … as you know we did only 17 pieces. Do you have a certain look from the collection that you prefer the most? I think every single look is just … special to me because I created it … deep in the back of my heart so I don’t have a favourite one. Can you give words of advice to the new generation? The main suggestion that I would like to share during these times that we live in is that you should not think too much with your head but think more with your heart. • Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.

Left Diego Binetti and CND co-founder Jan Arnold pose at the Binetti fall 2011 presentation. ‘[The Binetti woman] is a dominant, very powerful, elegant and sophisticated, and, most of all, she is a woman that lives life’

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