Marc Jacobs' Big Top

FWD118 Model walks the runway at the Marc Jacobs show during Spring 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York on Monday, Sept. 14, 2009.

FWD112 A model walks the runway at the Marc Jacobs show during Spring 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York on Monday, Sept. 14, 2009.

FWD112 A model walks the runway at the Marc Jacobs show during Spring 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York on Monday, Sept. 14, 2009.

A model presents a design from the Marc Jacobs Spring 2010 collection during New York Fashion Week, September 14, 2009.

All the world is circus, or at least it is in Marc Jacob's universe these days. Pale faced clowns, modernist Geisha gals, Fellini femme fatales and a saucy high wire troupe all appeared in his latest collection, presented Monday evening, Sept. 14, in New York.

Unveiled before an audience that included Madonna with her boyfriend Jesus Luz and Lady Gaga, whose music was the soundtrack of the show, the collection was theatrical, absurdist yet frequently very beautiful.

Practically none of the models in this show could have realistically walked out of the Downtown Armory where show was staged and out onto Madison Avenue, so affected and over-the-top was the styling. Bee-stung lips, Noh theater makeup and shark fin black eye shadow are hardly suitable for a day's work or a cool date.

Huge joker pants, frock coats and mini tutus were not easy street-wear. And if there was a defining detail in this spring 2010 collection it was the ruffle, shown in style plisse tops and shell like chiffon dresses, generally finished with miniature pearls.

This past few years, Jacobs' design team has been one of the best sources in North America of inventive footwear and this collection was no exception. His geisha block shoe meets flip flop will likely spark a huge trend, as will his trapeze artists sandals.

"Fashion is not a necessity, it's a desire. You do not need fashion. It has to inspire you," Jacobs said after the show.

That's not to say there were no plausible clothes in this show. Far from it. The bubbly skirts with satin panels cut six-inches below the knee or semi-sheer leggings or big collared car coats all had a certain art aplomb, which will thrill loyal Jacob followers.