The firing of Christian Dior creative director John Galliano merely a week before the show cast a funeral pall over the historic house’s Fall 2011 collection. Before the défilé began, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano appeared to deliver a speech in French about the values of the house of Dior. Without mentioning Galliano by name, he thanked him for his contributions, but also gave deference to the dozens of seamstresses and tailors who helped put the line together. He said, “the heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen… is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen.” Then it was on with the show.
The first few looks—a voluminous black cape over skinny velvet pants and knee high boots, a cropped burgundy jacket with an A line teal mini, accented by fur—seemed cast in Galliano’s image. The British born enfant terrible had a penchant for dressing like a modern day pirate, hat and all.
The proceeding lush ensembles evoked the signature aesthetic of the house’s fallen auteur. Over the knee swash buckling boots were paired with feathered skirts and loose fit jackets, topped with wide brimmed hats in midnight blue, moss and green. Fur trim played on jacket collars and cuffs; dainty brocade coats and khaki vests were paired with shin grazing short pants.
At the end, the collection took on the dainty, pretty visuals earmarked for Dior: sultry black lace gowns, pin tucked chiffon dresses with ribbon bows, and seductively sheer cocktails accessorized with strappy nude and white ankle tie sandals. Visually, it was a sweet ending.
And the icing on the cake: the hordes of seamstresses and tailors who worked on the collection appeared on the stage in pristine white lab coats to take the final bow. The audience stood, clapped, and wept. And the Dior team wept and clapped back.
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